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Wallpaper in kitchen... three walls in kitchen papered
from below crown moulding to top of wainscoting. West (exterior) wall only one of three kitchen walls
that was properly sized prior to paper being installed. Paper removed using Dif Wallpaper Stripper,
Paper Tiger scoring tool, warm water.
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West wall substrate structurally sound... paper came off
in long, even sheets. Sheetrock surface unaffected by wallpaper removal. Only area in need of repair
is an inch or so above the wainscoting, near the door. *To remove paper, use sponge to soak area with Dif
and warm water solution.
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South wall less structurally sound... wall improperly sized
(if sized at all) prior to paper being installed. Paper comes off in small pieces. Sections of sheetrock
are pulled off in chunks with the paper. *After soaking paper one time, soak it a second time, use paper
tiger to score paper surface.
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Point where south and east walls join problematic... because
substrate is coming off as paper is being removed, the corner where the walls meet looks bad, sometimes called the "wavy
gravy" effect. To achieve straight corners, both will need to be skim coated. from top-to-bottom.
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East wall also experiences substrate failure... all oak trim does
not lay flat to wall due to irregularities in wall surfaces. Entire wall needs to be skim coated to close uneven
gaps between walls and trim. *Once paper tiger has been used, soak the paper a third time then quickly start peeling paper.
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Once the paper has been removed, sand and prime... on this job,
all wall surfaces were sanded using a palm sander loaded with 100 grit sand paper. Because so much glue remained
on the south and east walls, palm sanding was the fastest way to cut through and remove the sticky residue.
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Oil-based primer applied prior to skim coating... to discourage future
substrate failure, an enamel-based oil product is applied to all surfaces prior to starting
the skim coating process. Enamel primers dry quickly and give plaster something to grab onto, it's like plaster weld, only better.
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Be careful when using oil-based primers... the fumes are strong, spilled
oil primer is difficult to clean up, and can be difficult to apply using a roller. Use a 1/4" nap roller, take extra
care in not creating
lap marks while rolling oil primer. The only way to remove dried lap marks is to sand them out.
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Enamel's leveling effect... one of the biggest benefits of
using oil-based enamel primers is that they naturally fill-in many minor wall imperfections as the enamel is applied.
Zinsser's Cover Stain brand of enamel primer is particularly adept at leveling and hiding stains, and it sands well, too.
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Cutting-in with oil... always use a good oil brush. Errors
are too easy to make using oil. Start working in small sections. Only dip the brush an inch or so into
your primer bucket. An over-saturated brush will lead to big problems in a hurry. And always make sure
you have a can of thinner within reach.
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Notice blue tape on all vertical edges and crown molding...remember,
oil-based enamel dries very quickly. The last thing you want is to allow enamel to dry on top of blue tape. It will
take hours to remove if it is allowed to dry.
Work fast, be careful. Take tape off the minute you are done priming.
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A look at the damage caused by improper wall sizing... there is no
simple fix. The damage is deep and covers over 80% of the wall surface. Instead of cutting out the old, hanging
and taping new sheetrock, multiple coats of plaster will be applied to create perfectly flat walls.
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The first coat of plaster is roughly 1/8" thick... and applied
quickly. Wall spaces are broken down into sections. Notice in this picture how plaster was not applied directly
into corners or around trim. Corners and other areas are covered by working the material in the center of the wall, outward.
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The same wall after being smoothed out using a 12" blade... a 6"
knife is used to apply plaster to the wall, a wider "blade" is used to minimize the number of passes needed to
remove swirl marks and create a flat finish. Once dried, sand any imperfections, add two more coats, then prime.
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All trim is covered with blue tape before any cut work begins...
this is particularly important when using deep base colors. Colorants found in darker colors tend to stain
trim woodwork, especially if the trim wood is porous. A thick cut is applied to avoid having to cut the same areas twice.
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Cutting in around door frames and cabinetry... any wall space
that is not wide enough to cover with a 9" roller is completely cut-in prior to rolling. Notice areas around
door frame (between frame and wall corner) and (in the previous picture) the strip of wall space next to the cabinetry.
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The cut is even, thick and run quickly... the entire room was cut in
in less than 30 minutes. The enamel-primed base coat helps expedite brush work. Applying latex paint over oil primer is
is like painting over glass. The Porter latex paint being used in this project gets a big, big thumbs up.
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Corner work before the turn... while corner work may not seem sigificantly
more important than other areas, in this case, because new, straight corners were constructed out of plaster,
we want to show off the quality work instead of marring with line-of-sight level brush strokes. Devil, details, etc.
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45 degree slash marks at 90 degree angles... the corners near all door and
window frames are slashed to avoid having to roll paint right up next to them. It's also done to feather out intersections
where converging brush strokes meet. The slash marks will be invisible once they've been rolled over.
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And the rolling begins... two coats of finish paint were applied to
walls. The Porter paint performed flawlessly. Coverage was even, dry time was just about perfect, can't comment on
touch up quality, none were needed. Matte finish. Applied with 1/2" microfiber roller. Color match to sample: exact.
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Pictures show results from one coat... if the cut was laid on a little
thinner, may have been able to get away with one cut/one roll coat coverage. Notice blue tape is gone in these
pictures. Everything was re-taped before rolling the second finish coat. Surface given 12 hours to dry between coats.
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South wall...
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East wall...
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A close-up of Porter paint immediately after application...
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Refer to the picture of the south wall prior to its being repaired... divits and all, now compare it
with the professionally finished end product. A base coat of enamel primer, three skim coats, another coat of enamel, two coats of finish paint.
This work will last at least seven years. Probably longer.
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